First day in Cleveland, a lonely, noir-ish town in bright Summer sunshine. A lonely, noir-ish town temporarily full of watchful cops and giddy Republicans. I was struck by the light and the emptiness here; I'd never seen a big city with so few residents, with such an eerie silence to it. I saw it downtown, and I saw it in the city's Chinatown. Of course, Detroit and other rust belt cities have experienced the same harsh downsizing, but there is a sadness to Cleveland that won't quit.